John Delorean is probably most remembered as the creator of the time traveling car in the ‘Back to the Future’ movies. Many will also recall that his gull winged car failed miserably on the open market and as a result he turned to illegal and shady dealings to try and save his company.
Lost in the glitter and drama of such a legacy, his important contribution to the world of sports cars is often overlooked. Without Delorean’s influence, sports car design and production would most likely have taken a different course.
In 1964, Delorean practically single handedly started the muscle car movement when he put a massive V8 engine into a Pontiac Tempest and produced the GTO.
The GTO became the most loved of the muscle cars and was a big seller for Pontiac.
Because of his great success with the GTO, he was rewarded with rapid advancement through the ranks of automobile executives. Eventually however, he decided to leave it all behind and break out on his own.
He took his ideas to Northern Ireland where he set up shop and hoped he could compete with the big three auto makers in Detroit. The Delorean Motor Company was the result and it produced the infamous DMC-12. This was his famous gull wing door car. It’s doors flipped up stead of opening out, the car was futuristic in appearance with its brushed stainless steel body.
The car never achieved the success that Delorean had dreamed of. In fact, only 9000 ever made it onto the road. However, its memory will always live on thanks to the ‘Back to the Future’ films. Although not a success in and of itself, it inspired many new designs and refinements later adopted by other car manufacturers.
Delorean was an outstanding business success not only in the automotive world, but also with hotel investing and NFL franchising. Delorean’s fall from grace was aired publicly and shocking to many. He was accused of financial misconduct and cocaine trafficking. His empire was soon decimated and he filed for bankruptcy.
It wasn’t the end of Delorean however. In 1999, he announced he would be producing a new affordable sports car made of plastic. Even with all his faults, he still drew much interests based on his previous important contributions to the sports car industry. Unfortunately Delorean passed on in 2004 before work was completed on his new vision.
About The Author
Jackson Porter is a staff writer at http://www.automobileenthusiast.comand is an occasional contributor to several other websites, including http://www.environmental-central.com.
Tuesday, October 24, 2006
Saturday, October 21, 2006
Interior Damage
There are some things that don't happen often, but when they do, it is hard to think of ways around them. We are going to talk about some of these problems in this article. Hopefully they won't happen to you, but if they do, here's how you solve them:
Rubber and Vinyl
There is a lot of rubber and vinyl in our cars. Just about every area has one of these types of surfaces. Both rubber and vinyl are extremely susceptible to sun-provoked deterioration and UV damage. Evidence of this is dry, brittle, fading, cracking and peeling surfaces. So keep them conditioned and use dash covers, and sun shields as often as you can.
High quality reflective sun shields not only protect the dash and fabrics from direct sun bleaching and damage, but lower the temperature of a closed car up to 50 degrees. When the temperatures can easily reach 120 to 150 degrees, this can make a huge difference in the longevity of your interior rubber and vinyl areas.
Scratches
Sometimes no matter what you do, the scratch happens. Maybe it was the dog (or cat), maybe the kids, maybe it was you, but its there now.
Getting a scratch out of vinyl is a bit of a process, but most folks can handle it. First we need a good hair dryer, something that kicks out a good deal of heat, without putting direct heat on the vinyl.
Heat up the surface around the scratch real good, then use a gloved hand to gently press the scratch area, pushing enough to rub the area smooth again.
If the scratch is deep, then use a filler, such as a wax source that is the same color as your vinyl. Crayons, believe it or not, work well. Heat the area up, rub in the wax filler, then (as before) use a gloved hand to rub the area smooth.
Polish the area with a good vinyl cleaner and inspect.
If the dash is cracking or very brittle, you can put on fitted molded dash covers, which basically replace the entire dash with a new one.
How to get rid of musty smell from the air conditioner
If you experience that unpleasant musty smell from the vents when the air conditioner is turned on, you can try one of the odor treatments you can buy in your local auto accessories store. They kill bacteria and remove mildew smells. Simply spray into outside air intake vent (check directions on your can).
Clogged air conditioner drain tube and accumulation of leaves and other debris under the cowl cover also may cause damp mildew smell. Ask the mechanic to check it when you do your next oil change.
Rust stains
You don't see these often, but they do happen. Rubber cargo liners save you from most of the sources, but if you got surprised and have the rust stain now, here is what you do.
To remove those stains, get a fresh lemon or two from the grocery store. Roll the lemon then slice it lengthwise. Squeegee the juice onto the rust spot and sprinkle it with salt. Keep the area damp with the lemon juice for several hours. The next day use a damp cloth and blot to remove.
Salt Stains
If you have gone through a winter in the salt belt, you'll find salt embedded in your carpeting. Good floor mats are a life saver here, but none the less, let's get the carpet clean now, and get the mats after.
"Salt" stains are usually caused by calcium chloride and magnesium chloride, not sodium chloride, according to the Carpet and Rug Institute. Rock salt has small amounts of both of these salts imbedded in it. The problem comes with solubility. Patience and lots of rinse cycles are the key and sometimes calcium carbonate forms and this is fairly insoluble. Try to vacuum most of the dry residue off before using cool to warm water and a very small amount of carpet shampoo. Once the cleaning solution has been applied, allow time for it to dissolve the deposit. Blot, do not scrub, the spot. Sodium chloride is more soluble at lower temps than at higher ones. Then rinse with clear lukewarm water, blotting up the excess moisture and follow with another water rinse and blot dry. This should work. If not, try a cleaning mixture of 1/2 white vinegar to 1/2 lukewarm water, allow to stand 15 minutes and rinse with clear water.
Tree Sap
The hardest thing to get off a car's finish is tree sap. I suggest that you avoid it altogether by avoiding parking underneath trees, and using a good car cover.
Since you already have it however, here's what you do.
To remove the tree sap from your vehicle's surface, you can use finger nail polish remover on a cotton ball. After the sap is removed, make a paste of water and baking soda to wash the affected area, then apply wax.
Another method to remove the sap is to use mineral sprits (it will also remove tar). Use a soft, terry towel, or wash cloth dampened with mineral sprits. After removal, wash the car and apply wax to the affected area.
Tree sap can also be removed by using a water-soluble paint brush cleaner. A common household solution is bacon grease or lard. Just rub it on, and off comes the sap. To get tree sap off of your hands, simply rub mayonnaise on them and wash it off. To remove tree sap and other substances, you can use common solvents like lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, WD-40 or even Skin-So-Soft bath oil.
The way to use those materials is to let them do their work of dissolving (in the case of alcohol) or softening (in the case of oils), enough to rub off the remaining sap. If you use the oil, wash the car afterwards to remove it.
You can also use commercial wax and grease-removing products available at auto supply stores. Be sure to wash and dry the car before applying the wax and grease remover. Then dampen a clean cloth with the solvent and rub the affected area. It may require several attempts if the sap is very thick or extremely hard. The surface may appear hazy after the solvent evaporates, but a good wax application will eliminate the haze and complete the job.
Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.
If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, you can try hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound to remove the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then you can use mineral spirits or a similar solvent to remove it. The light duty buffing compound softens the sap so the solvent can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand-rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.
Insect Honeydew
Parking under large trees can result in unwanted deposits of a sticky substance on the car. Most people assume this is tree sap, but the real culprit is far more likely to be insect honeydew, excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches.
Composed of sugars and other waste products that pass undigested through the insects' bodies, honeydew becomes harder to remove the longer it's left on the car.
If you remove the honeydew and park under the tree again, you'll just end up with more sticky stuff dripping down on your vehicle. You may be able to dislodge and reduce the numbers of offending aphids in the tree by blasting overhanging branches with a forceful stream of water from a hose. Unfortunately, a hard stream of water does not help much if the source of honeydew is scale insects.
Spraying with insecticides is rarely needed to protect the health of the tree.
About The Author
Elena Maria
http://www.caraccessories.com
View their website at: http://www.caraccessories.com/interior_damage.html.
Rubber and Vinyl
There is a lot of rubber and vinyl in our cars. Just about every area has one of these types of surfaces. Both rubber and vinyl are extremely susceptible to sun-provoked deterioration and UV damage. Evidence of this is dry, brittle, fading, cracking and peeling surfaces. So keep them conditioned and use dash covers, and sun shields as often as you can.
High quality reflective sun shields not only protect the dash and fabrics from direct sun bleaching and damage, but lower the temperature of a closed car up to 50 degrees. When the temperatures can easily reach 120 to 150 degrees, this can make a huge difference in the longevity of your interior rubber and vinyl areas.
Scratches
Sometimes no matter what you do, the scratch happens. Maybe it was the dog (or cat), maybe the kids, maybe it was you, but its there now.
Getting a scratch out of vinyl is a bit of a process, but most folks can handle it. First we need a good hair dryer, something that kicks out a good deal of heat, without putting direct heat on the vinyl.
Heat up the surface around the scratch real good, then use a gloved hand to gently press the scratch area, pushing enough to rub the area smooth again.
If the scratch is deep, then use a filler, such as a wax source that is the same color as your vinyl. Crayons, believe it or not, work well. Heat the area up, rub in the wax filler, then (as before) use a gloved hand to rub the area smooth.
Polish the area with a good vinyl cleaner and inspect.
If the dash is cracking or very brittle, you can put on fitted molded dash covers, which basically replace the entire dash with a new one.
How to get rid of musty smell from the air conditioner
If you experience that unpleasant musty smell from the vents when the air conditioner is turned on, you can try one of the odor treatments you can buy in your local auto accessories store. They kill bacteria and remove mildew smells. Simply spray into outside air intake vent (check directions on your can).
Clogged air conditioner drain tube and accumulation of leaves and other debris under the cowl cover also may cause damp mildew smell. Ask the mechanic to check it when you do your next oil change.
Rust stains
You don't see these often, but they do happen. Rubber cargo liners save you from most of the sources, but if you got surprised and have the rust stain now, here is what you do.
To remove those stains, get a fresh lemon or two from the grocery store. Roll the lemon then slice it lengthwise. Squeegee the juice onto the rust spot and sprinkle it with salt. Keep the area damp with the lemon juice for several hours. The next day use a damp cloth and blot to remove.
Salt Stains
If you have gone through a winter in the salt belt, you'll find salt embedded in your carpeting. Good floor mats are a life saver here, but none the less, let's get the carpet clean now, and get the mats after.
"Salt" stains are usually caused by calcium chloride and magnesium chloride, not sodium chloride, according to the Carpet and Rug Institute. Rock salt has small amounts of both of these salts imbedded in it. The problem comes with solubility. Patience and lots of rinse cycles are the key and sometimes calcium carbonate forms and this is fairly insoluble. Try to vacuum most of the dry residue off before using cool to warm water and a very small amount of carpet shampoo. Once the cleaning solution has been applied, allow time for it to dissolve the deposit. Blot, do not scrub, the spot. Sodium chloride is more soluble at lower temps than at higher ones. Then rinse with clear lukewarm water, blotting up the excess moisture and follow with another water rinse and blot dry. This should work. If not, try a cleaning mixture of 1/2 white vinegar to 1/2 lukewarm water, allow to stand 15 minutes and rinse with clear water.
Tree Sap
The hardest thing to get off a car's finish is tree sap. I suggest that you avoid it altogether by avoiding parking underneath trees, and using a good car cover.
Since you already have it however, here's what you do.
To remove the tree sap from your vehicle's surface, you can use finger nail polish remover on a cotton ball. After the sap is removed, make a paste of water and baking soda to wash the affected area, then apply wax.
Another method to remove the sap is to use mineral sprits (it will also remove tar). Use a soft, terry towel, or wash cloth dampened with mineral sprits. After removal, wash the car and apply wax to the affected area.
Tree sap can also be removed by using a water-soluble paint brush cleaner. A common household solution is bacon grease or lard. Just rub it on, and off comes the sap. To get tree sap off of your hands, simply rub mayonnaise on them and wash it off. To remove tree sap and other substances, you can use common solvents like lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, WD-40 or even Skin-So-Soft bath oil.
The way to use those materials is to let them do their work of dissolving (in the case of alcohol) or softening (in the case of oils), enough to rub off the remaining sap. If you use the oil, wash the car afterwards to remove it.
You can also use commercial wax and grease-removing products available at auto supply stores. Be sure to wash and dry the car before applying the wax and grease remover. Then dampen a clean cloth with the solvent and rub the affected area. It may require several attempts if the sap is very thick or extremely hard. The surface may appear hazy after the solvent evaporates, but a good wax application will eliminate the haze and complete the job.
Removing tree sap from a car's finish is a bit more difficult than tar, as hardened sap can scratch your paint. I've found that by hand-rubbing the sap spots with mineral spirits or denatured alcohol, I'm able to easily remove the sap without damaging the finish. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol acts as a solvent to break up and dissolve the sap.
If there is a large amount of sap on the car, or if the sap has been left on the finish for an extended period of time, it can be a lot of work to remove. For these cases, you can try hitting the affected areas with a light-duty buffing compound to remove the hardened surface on the sap spots. Then you can use mineral spirits or a similar solvent to remove it. The light duty buffing compound softens the sap so the solvent can do its job. The goal is to use the least pressure possible to reduce the risk of scratching the paint. After removing heavy sap, always buff the treated areas with a good polish to clean up any marks created during hand-rubbing with solvent. The treated area must also be re-waxed.
Insect Honeydew
Parking under large trees can result in unwanted deposits of a sticky substance on the car. Most people assume this is tree sap, but the real culprit is far more likely to be insect honeydew, excreted by aphids or scale insects that infest the leaves and branches.
Composed of sugars and other waste products that pass undigested through the insects' bodies, honeydew becomes harder to remove the longer it's left on the car.
If you remove the honeydew and park under the tree again, you'll just end up with more sticky stuff dripping down on your vehicle. You may be able to dislodge and reduce the numbers of offending aphids in the tree by blasting overhanging branches with a forceful stream of water from a hose. Unfortunately, a hard stream of water does not help much if the source of honeydew is scale insects.
Spraying with insecticides is rarely needed to protect the health of the tree.
About The Author
Elena Maria
http://www.caraccessories.com
View their website at: http://www.caraccessories.com/interior_damage.html.
Sunday, October 15, 2006
Grease and Sand
Tracked in grease and sand are the number one reason for damaged interior carpeting, and why floor mats (any kind really) are required to protect your car's resale value.
I say "any kind" and that is true, for the most part. Starting with sand, and dirt, the direct pressure and grinding motion of the feet while sitting in the car or getting in and out, grinds the sand and dirt into the fibers of the carpet, flaying away stain protection sealants and separating the weaves so your carpet begins to have that "fuzzy" look.
Anything that can keep this direct and focuses grinding from happening to your car's carpet, will save its beauty and extend the carpet's life.
By the time most auto carpets begin to show signs of wear, the internal fiber damage is often much greater.
It is very important to vacuum your passage areas regularly, using a powerful vacuum that can pull the sand out of the carpet, through the dense weave. Most car manufactures understand the tremendous wear car carpeting is subjected too, so the weaves of the carpets used are much more dense than most household carpeting.
The only real protection your car carpeting has against sand and dirt however is floor mats, or regular (weekly) vacuuming.
Grease and oils on the other hand are a different story. Vacuuming won't help you with grease (in fact vigorous vacuuming can spread the grease around), and it comes in the car from all sources.
· Asphalt and road tar
· Parking lot drippings
· Fast food spills
· and many more
Once grease is in the fibers, it bonds with dirt and sand, matting the fibers together and basically turning your own carpet into sand paper. The damage from that point is exponential.
There are several trick remedies on the market for removing grease from carpet fibers (without bleaching out the color of your carpeting at the same time). Nothing works better than a deep carpet clean buy a profession steam (or dry) cleaner.
Some of the lesser answers include :
· Pouring cornstarch onto the spot. Rub in lightly. Let sit for two or three hours, then vacuum.
· Put WD-40 on a white cloth (it won't damage the carpet coloring), apply to the grease or oil area gentaly so that you do not spread the stain, then dab with a clean cloth to pick the released oil and grease from the carpet. Clean the area with a carpet spot cleaner product afterwards.
Getting floor mats now will save you hours of time later and keep your carpet safe from both of these resale-value thieves.
We have quality, custom sized vinyl floor mats to fit over 4000 vehicles. These are not the cheap thin plastic versions that curl and warp on the first hot day, or send your heals slipping around while you are trying to drive. These are quality, slip resistant custom shaped heavy vinyl mats that last years and protect your carpet from all kinds of life hazards.
We also have custom designer floor mats, Rubber Floor Mats and Carpet Floor mats with vinyl binding (See the side menu for other options).
All of our floor mats are the highest quality available, insuring long life, protection of
About The Author
Article Written by Car Accessories (http://www.caraccessoreis.com).
I say "any kind" and that is true, for the most part. Starting with sand, and dirt, the direct pressure and grinding motion of the feet while sitting in the car or getting in and out, grinds the sand and dirt into the fibers of the carpet, flaying away stain protection sealants and separating the weaves so your carpet begins to have that "fuzzy" look.
Anything that can keep this direct and focuses grinding from happening to your car's carpet, will save its beauty and extend the carpet's life.
By the time most auto carpets begin to show signs of wear, the internal fiber damage is often much greater.
It is very important to vacuum your passage areas regularly, using a powerful vacuum that can pull the sand out of the carpet, through the dense weave. Most car manufactures understand the tremendous wear car carpeting is subjected too, so the weaves of the carpets used are much more dense than most household carpeting.
The only real protection your car carpeting has against sand and dirt however is floor mats, or regular (weekly) vacuuming.
Grease and oils on the other hand are a different story. Vacuuming won't help you with grease (in fact vigorous vacuuming can spread the grease around), and it comes in the car from all sources.
· Asphalt and road tar
· Parking lot drippings
· Fast food spills
· and many more
Once grease is in the fibers, it bonds with dirt and sand, matting the fibers together and basically turning your own carpet into sand paper. The damage from that point is exponential.
There are several trick remedies on the market for removing grease from carpet fibers (without bleaching out the color of your carpeting at the same time). Nothing works better than a deep carpet clean buy a profession steam (or dry) cleaner.
Some of the lesser answers include :
· Pouring cornstarch onto the spot. Rub in lightly. Let sit for two or three hours, then vacuum.
· Put WD-40 on a white cloth (it won't damage the carpet coloring), apply to the grease or oil area gentaly so that you do not spread the stain, then dab with a clean cloth to pick the released oil and grease from the carpet. Clean the area with a carpet spot cleaner product afterwards.
Getting floor mats now will save you hours of time later and keep your carpet safe from both of these resale-value thieves.
We have quality, custom sized vinyl floor mats to fit over 4000 vehicles. These are not the cheap thin plastic versions that curl and warp on the first hot day, or send your heals slipping around while you are trying to drive. These are quality, slip resistant custom shaped heavy vinyl mats that last years and protect your carpet from all kinds of life hazards.
We also have custom designer floor mats, Rubber Floor Mats and Carpet Floor mats with vinyl binding (See the side menu for other options).
All of our floor mats are the highest quality available, insuring long life, protection of
About The Author
Article Written by Car Accessories (http://www.caraccessoreis.com).
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
When to Gas Up and How
Now how are we all feeling about the prices of fuel today? I personally am not impressed so I sought out a few fuel saving techniques and would like to share them with you.
Do you know what kind of gas mileage your vehicle is getting? Calculating this is extremely simple. Start by filling up your tank. Write down the odometer reading or reset your trip gauge to zero. The next time you get gas, fill the tank again. Divide the miles you traveled between fill ups by the amount of gas you bought on the 2nd fill. This is your miles per gallon, or mpg.
First of all when filling up the tank never top it off. Most new vehicles have electronic gauges which work by a piece of metal attached to the float arm that slides across metal contacts this is called a sending unit to indicate how much fuel is in the tank. Topping it off can push this contact beyond its limits and damage the sending unit leading to inaccurate readings of the fuel gauge.
Try to buy your gas from a gas station that is consistently busy and therefore has its underground tanks filled on a regular basis. Gas stations that are slow will have gas that has been sitting in underground tanks for longer periods of time, leading to gas contamination.
This contamination can mean that the gas you are purchasing is less powerful than fresh gas and will decrease your fuel economy.
A few tips we have used in saving gas are fairly simple and easy for anyone to use. Some of them are never let your car run to a completely empty tank I generally fill up when my gas gage reads around half or no less then a quarter tank. Gassing up in the mornings is typically the best time because the temperature outside is usually much cooler.
While driving always maintain a steady acceleration try to refrain from jackrabbit starts. Always keep your speed at moderate levels. Do not use air conditioning or heat unless necessary.
Avoid idling the engine when it could be turned off, never leave car idling for more then 10 seconds unless it is an absolute need.
Try not to take short trips where the engine doesn’t have the opportunity to fully warm up, and in cold weather always make sure you warm the engine up first.
It is very important to always have the right air pressure in your tires.
Having your car in the best running condition is always going to guaranty you the best mileage and performance.
There are many very good fuel additives out there and we have searched extensively to find out which ones are the most effective.
If you would like more information on the products we have studied contact us.
E-mail us at brendalarsen@sasktel.net
Or call 306-545-4535 or 306 501-7424
Brenda Larsen or Ken Flegel
About The Author
Ken Flegel works as a certified electronic technician , part time mechanic, and purchaser for the local school board. One of his responsibilities is the purchasing of the fuel for all the board’s vehicles therefore giving him extensive knowledge in fuel quality, condition, and price.
Do you know what kind of gas mileage your vehicle is getting? Calculating this is extremely simple. Start by filling up your tank. Write down the odometer reading or reset your trip gauge to zero. The next time you get gas, fill the tank again. Divide the miles you traveled between fill ups by the amount of gas you bought on the 2nd fill. This is your miles per gallon, or mpg.
First of all when filling up the tank never top it off. Most new vehicles have electronic gauges which work by a piece of metal attached to the float arm that slides across metal contacts this is called a sending unit to indicate how much fuel is in the tank. Topping it off can push this contact beyond its limits and damage the sending unit leading to inaccurate readings of the fuel gauge.
Try to buy your gas from a gas station that is consistently busy and therefore has its underground tanks filled on a regular basis. Gas stations that are slow will have gas that has been sitting in underground tanks for longer periods of time, leading to gas contamination.
This contamination can mean that the gas you are purchasing is less powerful than fresh gas and will decrease your fuel economy.
A few tips we have used in saving gas are fairly simple and easy for anyone to use. Some of them are never let your car run to a completely empty tank I generally fill up when my gas gage reads around half or no less then a quarter tank. Gassing up in the mornings is typically the best time because the temperature outside is usually much cooler.
While driving always maintain a steady acceleration try to refrain from jackrabbit starts. Always keep your speed at moderate levels. Do not use air conditioning or heat unless necessary.
Avoid idling the engine when it could be turned off, never leave car idling for more then 10 seconds unless it is an absolute need.
Try not to take short trips where the engine doesn’t have the opportunity to fully warm up, and in cold weather always make sure you warm the engine up first.
It is very important to always have the right air pressure in your tires.
Having your car in the best running condition is always going to guaranty you the best mileage and performance.
There are many very good fuel additives out there and we have searched extensively to find out which ones are the most effective.
If you would like more information on the products we have studied contact us.
E-mail us at brendalarsen@sasktel.net
Or call 306-545-4535 or 306 501-7424
Brenda Larsen or Ken Flegel
About The Author
Ken Flegel works as a certified electronic technician , part time mechanic, and purchaser for the local school board. One of his responsibilities is the purchasing of the fuel for all the board’s vehicles therefore giving him extensive knowledge in fuel quality, condition, and price.
Thursday, October 05, 2006
History Of Porsche
The start of Porsche didn't start with the first Porsche car it actually started much earlier than that back in the 20th century. Check out the interesting history of Porsche.
1900: Ferdinand Porsche invented the wheel hub motor which made the Porsche name famous around the world. The Lohner Porsche Electric Car was displayed at the Paris Expo.
1928: Daimler Technical Director F. Porsche developed the Mercedes SS and SSK super charged sports car.
1931: In Stuttgart Ferdinand Porsche founded the Porsche Engineering Office.
1936: In the backyard of the Porsche villa in Stuttgart extensive testing was done on the first VW prototypes.
1938: Ferdinand Porsche directed the first VW assembly lines in Wolfsburg. The type 60 had seen the finishing touches and was read for production. Too bad that WWII interfered with the plan delaying the production of VW until 1946.
1947: Ferdinand Porsche Jr's next design was a Grand Prix racing car created in Gmünd, Austria.
1948: Ferry Porsche build's Porsches first sports car the 356 which is based on the VW parts. This roadster is the first to wear the Porsche name.
1949: The Torino Motor Show features the 12 cylinder Cisitalia race car with it's 385 bhp at 10,600 rpm. This car's top speed was an impressive 186 MPH and the four wheel drive gave great control. It was definitely the talk of the era impressing a considerable number of sports car buffs.
1950: A new chapter in the Porsche legacy begins back in Zuffenhausen where they finally become an independent auto factory. This change resulted in some considerable changes to the way Porsche did business.
1951: Ferdinand Porsche Sr. dies at the age of 75. It was a sad day but Porsche as a company didn't miss a beat with family continuing on. The 356 gets it's first international win in the 1100 CC class.
1953: The Fuhrman engine is presented in the Porsche 550 Spyder. This 1.5 L four cylinder engine has an impressive 110 BHP that definitely turned heads.
1956: Commemorated the 25th anniversary of Porsche and at the same time the 10,000th Porsche produced hits the streets.
1961: A new Porsche is in the works that included a 6 cylinder engine. Ferry Porsche's son Ferdinand designed the body.
1963: The 911 is presented at the Frankfurt International Automobile Show. The rear air cool engine concept is retained.
1964: The production of the 911 begins and so does the production of the 911 coupe.
1969: These were the year of the 914-4 and 914-6 mid engine mount sports cars. Both showed at the Frankfurt Motor Show and both win the World Championships for the working class.
1970: The 917 with its 4.5 liter 12 cylinder boxer engine is introduced to the world and it wins almost every competition it enters.
1971: The Weissach Research and Development Center work begins.
1972: Porsche goes public.
1974: The 911 Turbo is the beginning of a completely new Porsche era.
1975: The 924 is introduced. This is the first transaxle sports car and the engine is at the front with the transmission and drive wheels at the rear.
1977: The 928 production begins in Stuttgart. It had a light alloy V8 engine with transaxle configuration combined with the Weissach axle.
1982: The 956 is the most successful sports car of the time.
1982: Porsche Type 956
1985: The 959 spearheaded the technology of the era with only a limited number built and it was the first sports car to win the Parkis Dakar
1988: The 911 Carrera 4 was launched.
1989: The tiptronic four speed automatic transmission was introduced and what was neat about this transmission is could be operated manually or as an automatic. This was the first time it was seen in the 911 Carrera 2.
1993: The first Boxer concept car was launched and it was shown at the Detroit Auto Show. It was also where the new 911 Carrera was launched.
1995 The new 911 Turbo came to market staring it bi-turbo engine. It was the first production car to have an onboard diagnosis II and the lowest emissions of any car on the market.
1996: The production of the new Porsche Boxtser mid engine roadster begins.
1997: The 911 was released with a water cooled six cylinder boxer engine.
The history of Porsche never ceases to amaze the world with their uncompromising quality and sexy sporty cars that still today attract an elite market that has a true understanding of sports car class.
The Porsche of today is still about the sports car. But today there are innovative solutions to technical problems. Today's Porsche has amazing handling, agility, electronic gadgets that are improved over the past, better fuel economy, a higher safety rating, and even an environmentally friendly build.
The Porsche price range is wide starting at around $107,000 and going up over $300,000 so there's a car for every budget.
About The Author
Wayne Treister has been owned and ridden Porsches for 15 years. Visit his Porsche site at http://www.porschesworld.com to learn more about the different models.
1900: Ferdinand Porsche invented the wheel hub motor which made the Porsche name famous around the world. The Lohner Porsche Electric Car was displayed at the Paris Expo.
1928: Daimler Technical Director F. Porsche developed the Mercedes SS and SSK super charged sports car.
1931: In Stuttgart Ferdinand Porsche founded the Porsche Engineering Office.
1936: In the backyard of the Porsche villa in Stuttgart extensive testing was done on the first VW prototypes.
1938: Ferdinand Porsche directed the first VW assembly lines in Wolfsburg. The type 60 had seen the finishing touches and was read for production. Too bad that WWII interfered with the plan delaying the production of VW until 1946.
1947: Ferdinand Porsche Jr's next design was a Grand Prix racing car created in Gmünd, Austria.
1948: Ferry Porsche build's Porsches first sports car the 356 which is based on the VW parts. This roadster is the first to wear the Porsche name.
1949: The Torino Motor Show features the 12 cylinder Cisitalia race car with it's 385 bhp at 10,600 rpm. This car's top speed was an impressive 186 MPH and the four wheel drive gave great control. It was definitely the talk of the era impressing a considerable number of sports car buffs.
1950: A new chapter in the Porsche legacy begins back in Zuffenhausen where they finally become an independent auto factory. This change resulted in some considerable changes to the way Porsche did business.
1951: Ferdinand Porsche Sr. dies at the age of 75. It was a sad day but Porsche as a company didn't miss a beat with family continuing on. The 356 gets it's first international win in the 1100 CC class.
1953: The Fuhrman engine is presented in the Porsche 550 Spyder. This 1.5 L four cylinder engine has an impressive 110 BHP that definitely turned heads.
1956: Commemorated the 25th anniversary of Porsche and at the same time the 10,000th Porsche produced hits the streets.
1961: A new Porsche is in the works that included a 6 cylinder engine. Ferry Porsche's son Ferdinand designed the body.
1963: The 911 is presented at the Frankfurt International Automobile Show. The rear air cool engine concept is retained.
1964: The production of the 911 begins and so does the production of the 911 coupe.
1969: These were the year of the 914-4 and 914-6 mid engine mount sports cars. Both showed at the Frankfurt Motor Show and both win the World Championships for the working class.
1970: The 917 with its 4.5 liter 12 cylinder boxer engine is introduced to the world and it wins almost every competition it enters.
1971: The Weissach Research and Development Center work begins.
1972: Porsche goes public.
1974: The 911 Turbo is the beginning of a completely new Porsche era.
1975: The 924 is introduced. This is the first transaxle sports car and the engine is at the front with the transmission and drive wheels at the rear.
1977: The 928 production begins in Stuttgart. It had a light alloy V8 engine with transaxle configuration combined with the Weissach axle.
1982: The 956 is the most successful sports car of the time.
1982: Porsche Type 956
1985: The 959 spearheaded the technology of the era with only a limited number built and it was the first sports car to win the Parkis Dakar
1988: The 911 Carrera 4 was launched.
1989: The tiptronic four speed automatic transmission was introduced and what was neat about this transmission is could be operated manually or as an automatic. This was the first time it was seen in the 911 Carrera 2.
1993: The first Boxer concept car was launched and it was shown at the Detroit Auto Show. It was also where the new 911 Carrera was launched.
1995 The new 911 Turbo came to market staring it bi-turbo engine. It was the first production car to have an onboard diagnosis II and the lowest emissions of any car on the market.
1996: The production of the new Porsche Boxtser mid engine roadster begins.
1997: The 911 was released with a water cooled six cylinder boxer engine.
The history of Porsche never ceases to amaze the world with their uncompromising quality and sexy sporty cars that still today attract an elite market that has a true understanding of sports car class.
The Porsche of today is still about the sports car. But today there are innovative solutions to technical problems. Today's Porsche has amazing handling, agility, electronic gadgets that are improved over the past, better fuel economy, a higher safety rating, and even an environmentally friendly build.
The Porsche price range is wide starting at around $107,000 and going up over $300,000 so there's a car for every budget.
About The Author
Wayne Treister has been owned and ridden Porsches for 15 years. Visit his Porsche site at http://www.porschesworld.com to learn more about the different models.
Tuesday, October 03, 2006
Vehicle Tracking
The most common methods of vehicle tracking vary somewhat depending on the size of the vehicle fleet. Large fleets tend to use equipment that is more elaborate because they can afford the greater cost, while small and medium sized fleets generally use less expensive systems that provide less functionality. New technology, however, is rapidly changing the cost effectiveness and quality of tracking systems available to these small and medium sized fleets.
Large fleets
Large fleets that can take advantage of economies of scale typically use some form of GPS tracking and a central base station or dispatch point. The vehicle units can be quite expensive, as can the base station infrastructure and staffing requirements. Only the largest fleets can usually afford the capital investment that is required and the long timeframe that is needed to gain a return on that investment. Additionally, these types of systems require a monthly fee that can quickly become quite expensive.
Small and medium fleets
Most small and medium fleets will use some variation of vehicle tracking that is less costly to implement and maintain. For some this means using radios and a dispatch center, mobile telephones and a central office, or something similar. They may have a computer-based tracking process in the central location or, for very small fleets, they may opt instead for a simple map and manual tracking.
Quite a number of small fleets, in the range of one to ten vehicles, do not use active vehicle tracking at all. This may be due to the costs involved, lack of experience with tracking processes, or lack of awareness of the significant benefits that can be realized by an effective vehicle tracking system.
New technology
The newest technology available has the potential to radically alter the affordability and efficiency of vehicle tracking systems. Pioneered by AutoAlert, this system uses a small unit installed in the vehicle and a web based interface that is accessed by a standard mobile telephone, laptop computer, or PC.
The advantages are many. First, the start up cost of the system is extremely reasonable due to the relatively low cost of the vehicle unit itself. Second, there are no ongoing subscription or maintenance fees, thereby minimizing operating costs. And third, fleet managers can access tracking information from wherever they may be with just their mobile telephone. This allows them more freedom to get out of the office and into the field where their time is best utilized.
What does it all mean?
For the first time, small and medium sized fleets can gain access to an economical and easy to use vehicle tracking system. This means they can start reaping the benefits of reduced driver downtime, more efficient dispatching, field replenishment of supplies, etc. In a competitive business model, the extra edge gained from efficient vehicle tracking can mean the difference between a fleet owner prospering or just getting by.
About The Author
Richard Harris is a vehicle telecommunications expert who has developed an innovative vehicle tracking system. He advises on vehicle tracking, and a range of information can be found at http://www.autoalert-alarms.co.uk/news_toc.jsp
Large fleets
Large fleets that can take advantage of economies of scale typically use some form of GPS tracking and a central base station or dispatch point. The vehicle units can be quite expensive, as can the base station infrastructure and staffing requirements. Only the largest fleets can usually afford the capital investment that is required and the long timeframe that is needed to gain a return on that investment. Additionally, these types of systems require a monthly fee that can quickly become quite expensive.
Small and medium fleets
Most small and medium fleets will use some variation of vehicle tracking that is less costly to implement and maintain. For some this means using radios and a dispatch center, mobile telephones and a central office, or something similar. They may have a computer-based tracking process in the central location or, for very small fleets, they may opt instead for a simple map and manual tracking.
Quite a number of small fleets, in the range of one to ten vehicles, do not use active vehicle tracking at all. This may be due to the costs involved, lack of experience with tracking processes, or lack of awareness of the significant benefits that can be realized by an effective vehicle tracking system.
New technology
The newest technology available has the potential to radically alter the affordability and efficiency of vehicle tracking systems. Pioneered by AutoAlert, this system uses a small unit installed in the vehicle and a web based interface that is accessed by a standard mobile telephone, laptop computer, or PC.
The advantages are many. First, the start up cost of the system is extremely reasonable due to the relatively low cost of the vehicle unit itself. Second, there are no ongoing subscription or maintenance fees, thereby minimizing operating costs. And third, fleet managers can access tracking information from wherever they may be with just their mobile telephone. This allows them more freedom to get out of the office and into the field where their time is best utilized.
What does it all mean?
For the first time, small and medium sized fleets can gain access to an economical and easy to use vehicle tracking system. This means they can start reaping the benefits of reduced driver downtime, more efficient dispatching, field replenishment of supplies, etc. In a competitive business model, the extra edge gained from efficient vehicle tracking can mean the difference between a fleet owner prospering or just getting by.
About The Author
Richard Harris is a vehicle telecommunications expert who has developed an innovative vehicle tracking system. He advises on vehicle tracking, and a range of information can be found at http://www.autoalert-alarms.co.uk/news_toc.jsp
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